Wild swimming in Slovenia with the man who conquered the world’s deadliest river

Maya Oppenheim
Swimming in Lake Bled gives a whole other perspective on the famous landmark: Strel Swimming Adventures

It is not too much to say that Martin Strel is the strongest man I have ever met. And when I say strong I don’t mean in the muscular, Hercules-esque sense of the word; I mean strong as in indestructible.

The 63-year-old Slovenian might be a little rotund of frame but he’s also one of the most elite endurance athletes in the world. This unlikely hero is the greatest marathon swimmer to have lived, holding successive Guinness World Records and claiming the accolade of being the only man to have swum five of the greatest rivers on the planet: the Yangtze, Paraná, Mississippi, Danube and Amazon.

The latter is not just the largest in terms of water volume, but the deadliest swim in history. He conquered it while drinking two bottles of wine a day.

Strel’s various expeditions have seen him swim alongside candiru – a bloodsucking fish known as the “vampire fish of Brazil”, which can swim up a urine trail into your penis – and get struck by lightning and knocked unconscious. He has also swum with crocodiles and sharks, two animals he off-handedly described as “friends”.

If that wasn’t enough, the former gambler and guitar teacher – who is the subject of the Sundance award-winning 2009 documentary Big River Man, which follows him swimming the entire 3,300 mile length of the Amazon river – has been chased by machete-wielding native tribes.

But when Strel isn’t braving electrical storms and whirlpools, he’s now a tour guide, having set up Strel Swimming Adventures with his son Borut Strel in 2010.

Participants swim in some of Slovenia's most beautiful lakes (Strel Swimming Adventures)

Borut is not just a tremendously experienced swimmer himself but has been his father’s project manager and expedition leader for years: together the father and son duo have an unparalleled knowledge of open water swimming. But don’t let the dangerous scenes described above put you off their holidays. My Slovenian wild swimming adventure was one of the most tranquil and harmonious holidays I’ve ever had.

Prior to going to Slovenia for the first time, the only thing I could tell you about the small central European country was that it had given birth to Slavoj Zizek, the eccentric continental philosopher otherwise known as the Elvis of cultural theory. But, upon entering the land of fairytale castles, adorable churches and cobalt blue lakes, Zizek was the last thing on my mind.

Located at the intersection of the Alps, the Mediterranean and the Pannonian Plain, Slovenia is known for its glacial lakes and important rivers – the ideal attributes for a wild swimming holiday. The four-star Hotel Jezero acted as a perfect starting point, overlooking the blue-green waters of Lake Bohinj (and offering a reassuringly extensive breakfast buffet).

The trip involves swimming 4km a day (Strel Swimming Adventures)

From swimming in lakes where the water was so clean you could literally drink it, to strolling through lush green forests and swimming under dazzling waterfalls, I felt like I was wandering through an oversaturated postcard of some far-flung mythical land. I'm struggling not to resort to cliche, but it was magical.

A visit to Lake Bled – which, once you get past the throngs of tourists, deserves its reputation of being one of the world’s most beautiful lakes – gave the chance to get under the skin of the well-worn attraction in a whole new way. Swimming to the 17th century church on tear-shaped Bled Island and past Vila Bled, a former holiday villa of Marshal Tito of Yugoslavia, I felt like I was soaking up every last drop of the lake’s glistening glory, all while bathing in the shadow of the highest peaks of the Julian Alps.

Alongside the scenery, the people really made my trip. Something about getting into your swimwear with strangers – and I mean this is in the most wholesome way possible – and pulling on a brightly coloured swimming hat so your head looks like a painted egg is strangely bonding.

Swimmers bond quickly on Strel Swimming Adventures (Strel Swimming Adventures)

What’s more, solo swimmers are flocking to the tours, with around half of participants being lone travellers. There’s a particularly large contingent of solo female travellers – a demographic which made up the majority of my group.

The average daily swim for the Slovenia trip was 4km, which, while it might sound a lot, flew by when fuelled by plentiful portions of Slovenian sausage and sauerkraut, coupled with endless entertainment and comedy from Martin and Borut. In fact, it was the guidance of the Strels, who truly relished in showing us around their homeland, that made the trip stand out from other swimming tours on the market.

In one of my many chats with Borut between dips, the conversation turned to his father and his intrepid adventures. Asked how Martin has managed to endure such gruelling swims while relentlessly risking his life in the process, he told me, “His health is like a robot’s. He hypnotises himself to manage his pain and to filter out sensations in his head. He senses danger very differently to others. He does not recognise danger as danger but as an object he will get around. In his perception, he can do anything.”

Martin was more crudely matter-of-fact about his ability to evade death.

“Physically you have hundreds of swimmers who are better than I am, but they are not mentally better,” he said. “The key is here.” He gestured towards his head, mouth full of the famous Lake Bled cream cake, a delicate puff pastry with cloud-like vanilla cream and custard.

“I can swim with crocodiles. I can swim with sharks. I can swim with whales. I can swim anywhere,” he continued. “They have never attacked me. I have a good relationship with animals. Just swim, don’t be afraid. In my mind they are friends. But of course this whole swimming thing is not for fun. It is a dangerous game. One mistake and it’s over.”

Travel essentials

Getting there

Wizz Air offers flights from London Luton to Ljubljana from £205 return.

Staying there

Strel Swimming Adventures offers tours aimed at all levels of swimmers. A three-night, four-day trip to Slovenia costs £570, including B&B accommodation. Excludes travel to and from Slovenia.