Inside the Prez's place

Thu, Jul 24 01:40 AM

Imagine a Washingtonian, Londoner or a Muscovite never having visited White House, Buckingham Palace or Kremlin respectively. Improbable? Our globetrotting Delhiites would likely have visited White House, Buckingham or Kremlin, but not Dilli's own Rashtrapati Bhavan.

Blame it on ignorance. After over two decades in Delhi, I stumbled upon the possibility of touring it.

A letter to the President's office (stating visitors' names, address, age, etc) is all it takes to fix a tour! The blazing summer notwithstanding, we approached the sprawling, regal, two-toned edifice with feverish anticipation. Wow! Solid, stately columns range along the entrance porch arrived at by climbing 30-odd steps.

With childlike delight, we stood right where VVIPs, visiting dignitaries and awardees tread. An ancient sculpture excavated from Rampurva, Bihar has, "Asokan Bull Capital with Mauryan polish, 3rd century BC" inscribed, suitably impressing visitors with a sense of India's glorious antiquity.

Designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, the 340-roomed vice-regal residence set amidst 330 acres took 17 years to build. It was inaugurated in 1931.

The imposing copper-encased dome is reminiscent of the Sanchi stupa. The sandstone palace is laid out over 4.5 acres, making it the largest presidential palace in the world.

Despite the obvious lack of opulence, Rashtrapati Bhavan scores with imperial proportions and understated majesty. We were guided into Marble Hall Museum, where large portraits and busts of King George V, Queen Mary, Benjamin Disraeli, etc.

are displayed. Kitchen Museum's exhibits include 'Star of India' crockery, silver/crystal ware and an interesting foldable picnic box amidst other exhibits.

How on earth had we missed it all these years? We trooped towards a large, 1,000-armed Avalokiteshwara, a gift from Vietnam to an earlier President. A first floor museum displayed stunning artefacts gifted to various Presidents: a large onyx table from Afghanistan; a model of musical pillars in a South Indian temple; a ship of cloves gifted from Indonesia; a dry sunflower that adorned Gandhiji's mortal remains; 1911 Delhi Durbar silver chair, to name a few.

Walking towards what seemed the bowels of the building, we were awe-struck by Durbar Hall, remembered from TV coverage of National Award ceremonies.The guide plied us with trivia about the three-layered dome, original Belgian glass chandelier weighing 2 tonnes (hanging from a height of 33m), the maroon curtains being vintage 1929, two pre-Independence thrones replaced by a single chair for the President.

From behind, presides the Buddha in statue form, circa 5th century AD, Gupta period. We marvelled at that unknown ancient sculptor's finesse, so discernible in the soft folds of Buddha's robe.

Ashoka Hall (the British-era ballroom) has wooden flooring over springs. Beautiful Persian paintings on the ceiling, lovely chandeliers, clocks, fireplaces and pillars bedeck Ashoka Hall which is used for samarohs.

It was striking. We exited the room with a heady feeling.

Next was the vast, teak-panelled Banquet Hall that accommodates 104 guests. Paintings of past Presidents adorn the walls, as also numerous Mughal and British era weapons.

A light system indicates to bearers when to serve which course. The 90-minute tour ended as we exited into Mughal Gardens.

Too brief, we sighed, yearning to see it again. In between vacationing in Australia, Dubai or London, how about squeezing in a visit to Rashtrapati Bhavan?.

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